i don't think i have that particular issue in my guide.
but from what i understand, the Cracker Launcher has it's own animation that it uses to make the model hold it correctly. if the animation isn't made for the new model, then it won't work. but this is only my current assumption, i haven't really looked into it much. does your import have those animations?
yep, with his regular eyes for the glasses arms. all you have to do to make them always show is to hex the bone index to another index. the regular eyes are at index 32 and the damage eyes are index 33. just change them to something else, and they'll always show. a word of warning, though. on some bones, they like to move around a lot more than they should. if you aren't going to use the bag for anything, then re-index the bones to be 14, like i did with Dexter. if you are going to use the bag, then you'll probably have to do some bone re-structuring, like i did with Joe Cool and the Flying Ace.
that will work with any polygons that are attached to a specific bone that only show during certain times.
crazy? probably. but i have a lot of free time until college starts up again, unfortunately being in a little over a week. but it was totally worth it.
also, high quality textures, courtesy of MANSTA8.
i then took it and applied it to Joe Cool and the Flying Ace
also, i took some time to make the Flying Ace look better, mainly with the goggles. they're made from Olimar's eyes, just like Joe Cool's glasses are. it just bugged me for some reason to not do it like that. the download includes my textures and MANSTA8's textures, just because.
oh, and i also finally fixed the problem with Joe Cool's glasses moving around. they don't now.
i figure this is a good way to finally say that one of my favorite hacks so far is now fully completed. no further updates are needed for Snoopy. the rest of mine, on the other hand...
sorry, i meant to post this last night, but i got busy and never did.
anyways, here's my notes about how i vertexed the Pikmin. keep in mind that you have to hex the changes yourself. and because it's a large wall of text, it's in a spoiler.
the reason you can't vertex Pikmin (and probably other models, like Waddle Dee/Doo, and items) any of the usual ways is because of the way the vertex data is stored. most models store them in 32 bit hex, as in 30FE922D. for one vertex, they have 3 sets, one for the X, Y and Z positions. the Pikmin models hold the vertex data in 16 bit hex, as in 0852. this is why our current methods won't work with them, because they can only edit 32 bit hex data.
as for how you vertex them, it's all by hand, through a hex editor. here are the steps.
first, get a FitPikmin00.pac and run it through AiS to get the DAE's of the models. import it into 3ds Max.
second, vertex the model to what you want it to look like.
third, get the model you're editing, and open it in a hex editor. go to the vertex set you've edited in 3ds max. look in BrawlBox to find the offset, in the Verticies folder.
fourth, it's time to move the verticies, one at a time. you'll have to count out where all the verticies are, so it's a good idea to open a copy of the model in the hex editor and type in where all the verticies are. i say a copy, so it won't mess with the one you want to save.
fifth, start moving the verticies. here's some of what i've written down. these are 2 different verticies moved.
for the most part, if you increase the numbers, they move in a positive direction, and vice versa. i say for the most part because i ran into a few verticies that did the opposite, so just be aware of that. and this is the pattern i picked up after a while.
1st # adjusts the 1 position (by a little over 2 per number (3 to 4, A to 9...)) 2nd # adjusts the .1 position (by a little over 1 per number (3 to 4, A to 9...)) 3rd # adjusts the .01 position (by a little over 1 per number (3 to 4, A to 9...)) 4th # adjusts the .001 position (by small quantities)
this was for the Yellow Pikmin's body. the eye polygon took a lot more to move the verticies. it just takes some trial and error to get used to it. you'll also want 2 3ds's open, the fully edited one, and an unedited one. that way, you can see how much you need to change the vertex. compare the same vertex in both, then hex the change. i'd also suggest editing only 1 or 2 verticies at a time. it gets a bit confusing if you do more.
sixth, when you make the change in the hex editor, save it.
seventh, import the model you just edited into the FitPikmin00.pac, save it, and run it through AiS.
eighth, import the new DAE into 3ds, and find the vertex you edited. compare where the vertex ended up to the fully edited model.
ninth, go back to step 5. if the vertex you moved is in an acceptable range of where you wanted it, move to the next.
this process will take many hours to do, but as far as i know, it's the only way to do it.
Mansta8, go right ahead. i'm not that great at texturing, so i'd be happy if you did. once you're done with it, just send it to me and i'll put it into the pack. and if you want to do that with some of my others, i wouldn't be disapointed...
i finally have the internet back in my house after 2 rather long months without it. and i come bearing a gift from shear boredom, Snoopy V2! it now includes the Flying Ace and Woodstocks!
i figured out a way to vertex the Pikmin, but it's through doing it by hand. it doesn't take too long once you get used to it, but it still took many hours to do. it looks really good though, i'm surprised how well it turned out. and if you want the full details on how i vertexed the Pikmin, i'll post my notes. oh, and i disabled the leg bones because it was causing some bad stretching, but it didn't mess with the hitboxes at all. i just updated the existing Vault entry, but here's the link anyways.
that's (most likely) because you haven't hexed the model to work with BrawlBox. you'll have to hex it either by hand, or with one of the auto hexing programs, both of which i have links to in my guide that TruePhilosopher posted.
this one has the info about Hitmonchan and why i haven't been on in a while. yeah, too lazy to copy and paste, but i'll blame it on my laptop's battery for now (it's pretty low, and it dies in about an hour even on the lowest power settings).
what you'll have to do is get a clean model file and copy and paste the polygon into the edited one.
for example, say Polygon0 has been deleted from Fox. get an unedited FitFox.pac (or .pcs), export the model, open the model in a hex editor, go to Polygon0, copy all of it (you don't need the header, but it shouldn't matter). then open the edited Fox model in the hex editor, go to Polygon0, highlight the entire polygon (or just after the header, whichever you copied, it just needs to be the same length), then paste it in and save.
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