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« Reply #240 on: April 09, 2013, 08:41:07 PM » |
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question to you people, do you just separate the texture in layers and edit the hue and saturation of every part, or do you do some other weird magic?
Pretty much that. I use Photoshop and split everything into a separate layer, then use hue/saturation brightness/contrast, or whatever tool is around to edit. I occasionally use the "variations" tool in order to keep the quality of the texture as high as possible. When you edit them a lot, some of the detail becomes muddled and that irritates me.
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« Reply #241 on: April 10, 2013, 02:55:40 AM » |
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When you edit them a lot, some of the detail becomes muddled and that irritates me.
this was my main concern, how do you get around this? it specially happens when editting saturation iirc
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« Reply #242 on: April 10, 2013, 08:58:32 AM » |
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When you edit them a lot, some of the detail becomes muddled and that irritates me.
In most circumstances, you shouldn't ever reach that point, though. The way I typically work is basically just like what Shun said, except I modularize my Photoshop files pretty well so it's super easy to re-edit them, and also control them. If I were to cut out a section of an image, Falco's eyes, for example: I make an adjustment layer for hue and practically invert it. Make a new group, drop the adjustment layer in there and then add a layer mask to the group itself, not the adjustment layer. Make the mask all black (Alt + Backspace to fill), then paint out on the layer mask with white and reveal the inverted color of Falco's eye. Then once I've cut it out, I set it to the hue and saturation I actually want, perhaps add a brightness/contrast adjustment, maybe a second one if I need it. (I don't usually mess with Levels too much as it rasterizes the changes, which isn't what I want.) Or maybe I just add a solid color adjustment layer and play with the blending options. The vibrance/saturation adjustment layer is subtle, but can really push your textures from good to great if used appropriately to get a popping balance the two. Though, in order to not lose detail, all you really have to do is balance the brightness and contrast properly, usually. And then not using TOO many adjustments at once on one section. If you have a specific example you're struggling with, post it and we may be able to help.
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« Reply #243 on: April 10, 2013, 02:01:03 PM » |
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Apples is right. Typically, you should never edit it to the point of deterioration. It only happens to me when I try for a specific theme on this project and go through a ton of revisions. At which point, when I get one I like, I start fresh and replicate the result. I also have the advantage of being able to just paint the detail back in if need be. Last Olimar preview before release:
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« Reply #244 on: April 10, 2013, 02:20:42 PM » |
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OliMars is lookin' pretty nice there.
Generally when I recolor things, I just use Hue/Saturation and Levels layers with a mask for each color group, organize the folders, and then put those folders into a folder labeled whatever the recolor is for. That way I can duplicate the recolor folder to make another recolor and hide the ones that aren't used. The levels layers typically go unused, though, unless they are masking a really light or dark section.
Probably not the process for the best quality, but it's good for organization, and any slight defects aren't noticed during gameplay. That's the way I recolor stuff, anyway.
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« Reply #245 on: April 10, 2013, 05:00:41 PM » |
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Maritime Wolf: Olimar's looking good. I'm using Gimp and just split all the textures into layers making sure they're all named clearly and looking good, so I can then just use the colorize, hue-saturation and brightness tools to finish the texture. I then make a copy of the .xcf-files for every texture and duplicate any layers before editing, if I expect to make any changes. I then most of the time start again with the original layer when I make any non-minor revisions, which doesn't really take longer than changing the old one and prevents any quality es due to too many edits.
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« Reply #246 on: April 10, 2013, 05:08:06 PM » |
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The silver straps on the boots really do complete the image. I say Maritime Wolf is perfect.
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« Reply #247 on: April 10, 2013, 06:26:05 PM » |
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I changed the pauldron after comparing it with my draft, now I'm pretty satisfied with Wolf:
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« Reply #248 on: April 10, 2013, 07:09:48 PM » |
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Release that Wolf, says I. Do that, and I'll update the Minty pack to include Maritime as well if Devicer doesn't magically appear and do it for us.
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« Reply #249 on: April 11, 2013, 08:28:13 AM » |
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Looks good. Finally Maritime gets completed.
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« Reply #250 on: April 11, 2013, 01:29:40 PM » |
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Maritime Wolf is PERFECT. Hurry up and add it to the pack
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« Reply #251 on: April 11, 2013, 05:42:13 PM » |
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« Reply #252 on: April 11, 2013, 11:40:26 PM » |
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MariWolf's looking snazzy. Incidentally, several of my Maritime default CSPs aren't in the first post; here's a link to all the CSPs I've done for Maritime & Mars, excepting the Warios', which are already in the first post.
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« Last Edit: April 11, 2013, 11:42:27 PM by jdaster64 »
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« Reply #253 on: April 12, 2013, 06:18:30 AM » |
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Wolf's up. There appear black areas beneath the fur on Wolf's head whenever I replace the face texture with even just an unchanged export of itself via BB, that I wasn't able to get rid of. They're not noticable during gameplay, but if anybody knows how to make them disappear please do tell me. (the Project:M team managed, I don't know if someone else did)
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« Reply #254 on: April 15, 2013, 04:18:54 PM » |
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Can we get a Maritime DDD CSP default please? I need it so that I can get rid of his awful 6th color. The one that's just a darkened and desaturated version of original DDD.
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Show me ya moves!
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